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Streets of Korea

snow-bound furntiture
Originally uploaded by The Central Scrutiniser

The streets of Korea are packed with goods. Shopkeepers keep their excess stock on the footpath, and when it is closing time they just leave it there, with at most a tarp over it to protect it from rain. Like this furniture, sitting in the snow after the shop has closed.

No-one seems to steal things. I thought for a long time it was because people are very honest - then I realised that it is because any time of day or night, there are always people around. One is always observed.

Sometimes I think I was happiest in Korea when I didn't have a clue what was going on.

I knew nothing of Korea when I arrived. Nothing at all. To me it was a sort of Japan or China. I had ideas that it was "The Spiritual East". My main experience of Asia had been India.

So, when I heard the vegetable trucks in the mornings with the veggie sellers droning away in their unique way, I thought it was monks chanting. "Wow," I thought, "How cool and spiritual."

I actually blissed out listening to them.

Oddly, it was no great disappointment when I found out the truth. By that stage the spiritual east bubble had been burst anyway. Korea had revealed itself as the shallow materialistic country that it is - that most countries seem to be.

I actually somehow blocked that out though - and still kind of bliss out when I hear veggie trucks....

Looking back

on the roof
Originally uploaded by The Central Scrutiniser

I've been looking at old photos and decided to upload a few and write a bit of a narrative about my time teaching in Korea.

I came to Korea from Papua New Guinea. I arrived in October 2001. The temperature shock was pretty bloody harsh.

I had no preconceptions about Korea. I knew very little about the place. I remember being surprised that people drive on the right. I was actually hit by cars twice during my first year because of this.

I arrived at Incheon and there was no-one there to meet me. I had no phone number to ring, no contact, nothing. So I sat around for hours. I did not want to leave the area of the gate because I did not want to be missed when someone came looking for me. Eventually someone did.

A woman in heavy makeup, and dressed in a red dress came clip-clopping towards me in her high heels - "Are you Greg?". No apologies for being late. Just - "Hurry, Mr. Park is waiting"...

It seems they were totally oblivious to the fact that they were three hours late picking me up and now they were more concerned about having to pay money to Park the car. Mr. Park was the owner of the school, the woman in red, "Sunny", was his wife. She would soon become my mortal enemy, but I didn't know this yet.

Mr. Park was alarmed at the amount of baggage I had. At issue was my guitar. He could not fit it in his boot so I had to nurse it in the back seat. I remember being shocked at how cold the air was when we left the terminal. I would need more warm clothes.

Driving on what seemed an endless freeway from Incheon to Ansan, Sunny asked me if I liked music. I said yes and so she put on some truly amateurish Christian music and smiled vacantly at me. There was not much conversation. They seemed nervous.

I asked about the other teachers. I had been told there were two Australians at the school and I would be living in an apartment next-door to them. "They are at sports-day," said Sunny. It was Saturday. It seems the school was having a sports day and teachers were required to attend. I didn't like the sound of that. Fortunately it never happened again.

my street
Originally uploaded by The Central Scrutiniser

So - eventually we wound up outside an old building and climbed 3 flights of stairs to a small landing with two doors. "James and Kelvin live here, you live here," says Sunny and opens my door.

The apartment was quite large, but old and rundown. And it was cold!!!! Mr. Park said something about being back soon and they were gone.

I was on my own in a big cold apartment with zero furniture. There was a small portable gas burner but no bottles, and a couple of saucepans and cups. I could not work out the heater. I was very tired.

No good sitting on the floor freezing to death so I went for a walk. There was a laneway nearby which was filthy and full of interesting Asian things to wonder at. I had changed some money at the airport so I was able to purchase a gas canister, some tea, milk and a few things to eat. Back at the apartment I made a cup of tea and sat on the floor freezing my arse off wondering when Mr. Park would be back.

Two hours later I hear people at the door. It was James and Kelvin, my new neighbours. They invited me in and I was glad of their warm apartment and hospitality. As it turned out they were both from Toowoomba - fellow Queenslanders - and we were to become good friends. James showed me how to work the heater.

Soon Sunny and Mr. Park were back with a truckload of furniture. A bed, a sofa, a table, a better stove and a wardrobe. Also good blankets and a rug for the floor. I was happy. My apartment was warm and furnished. In hindsight it was one of the best apartments I ever had in Korea, though it had some problems - like the screen-printer downstairs who used horrible organic solvents, and the leaky windows that made my gas bill soar. But it had a big bath - and that was a big plus. I was to spent many an evening soaking in there with the window open watching the snow drift past.

Sunny and Mr. Park ordered food and we all sat down to a sort of late lunch. Jjambbong and jajang... Pretty bloody awful I thought. We sat on the floor and the ondol soaked into my cold bones.

Then I went and slept for a while. In the evening James and Kelvin took me out for some better food. A galbi dinner. Things were looking up. Next day I found E-mart and got some warmer clothes.

The first week at the school was easy as I just observed classes. No teaching till Thursday I think. I was actually fired from that school one week before the end of my contract. Got my bonus though. But that's another story....

Victoria Hotel, Goondiwindi

Victoria Hotel, Goondiwindi
Originally uploaded by The Central Scrutiniser

had a pretty good week. things have changed a bit at work. the stock office has moved into my building, meaning the regional manager is right next to me and he gives me more work to do, but i like talking with him and he shares my love of getting out in the field as often as possible.

went to goondiwindi on wednesday - a wonderful 300km drive through the myall country. silver green leaves hanging luminous in the cold winter sun.

shot some film. have just processed it and am waiting for it to dry now...

toons

my flickr friend Xenedis found this site where one can make a toon figure of oneself in the style of South Park.

Here is mine -

and here is my wife, Helen (a very good likeness)

Now - show me yours ^^

got it...

got it...
Originally uploaded by jayavant.

I went and bought this so I can read it before I watch the movie.

Just remembered another PKD movie - Minority Report - hopeless movie.

currently reading...

currently reading...
Originally uploaded by jayavant.

Big PKD fan - to the pint of obsession. Must read everything he has written and everything written about him. I also like old books.

I picked up this edition in Port Moresby back in 2001. Now I am reading it - though I have read most of the stories before.

How many PKD stories have been made into movies?

Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep --> Bladerunner : great dark movie with wonderful photography.

Paycheck --> Paycheck : So-so...

We Can Remember It For You Wholesale --> Total Recall : I suppose this movies stands on it's own OK as a quirky SF/action flick, but it leaves out the main pint of the book - ie - the mice... (you'll have to read it)

A Scanner Darkly - I haven't read it or seen the movie. I think I really must read it first.... Will try and find the book tomorrow.